TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION

I.
Introduction
II.
General Policies
III.
Housing
IV.
Procedures for Incoming Animals
V.
Feeding
VI.
Watering
VII.
Room Maintenance
VIII.
Summary of Animal Care and Cleaning Schedules
IX.
Euthanasia
X.
Personal Health
XI.
Student Training Requirements
XII.
Individual Animal Care Procedures
  A.
Mice
  B.
Rats
  C.
Snakes
  D.
Savannah Monitor
  E.
Aquaria
  F.
Frogs
  G.
Meal Worms

Appendix

 

I. Introduction

      This manual is intended for use by caretakers for the University of Wisconsin-Platteville Biology Department's animals. It will help new, temporary, or regular caretakers perform the job accurately and completely. The guidelines followed in this manual are taken from the guidelines set up by the USDA for the Care and Use of Laboratory Animals.

      The operation of the Biology Animal Facility is the responsibility of the University of Wisconsin-Platteville Biology Department and is reviewed by the UWP Animal Care and Use Committee bi-annually.

      The animal facility is located in rooms 319 Boebel and 324 Boebel. Any questions or concerns about the facility should be directed to the Biology Department Laboratory Manager, the Department Chair, or the UWP Animal Care and Use Committee. Revised 4-22-98 GJH.

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II. General Policies

  1. Treatment and handling of the animals will be conducted in a humane manner.
  2. Individuals working with the animals will be given the proper training prior to beginning work.
  3. Eating, drinking, and smoking will not be permitted in the animal rooms.
  4. All persons in contact with the animals must wash their hands thoroughly upon leaving the animal facility.
  5. Animals should be checked on a daily basis and all procedures should be noted on the animal care charts.
  6. Persons wising to use the animals need to contact the Biology Department and complete the Animal Use Form which is reviewed by the UWP Animal Care and Use Committee.
  7. Access to the Animal Facility will be limited to Biology Faculty, Staff, trained student workers and the UWP Animal Care and Use Committee.

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III. Housing

  1. The USDA sets the limits on the maximum number of animals covered by the Animal Welfare Act that can be housed in an y primary enclosure. This number varies with the size of the cage and the weight of the individual animals, and is not to be exceeded. This information is included in this manual under the individual animal care procedures.
  2. Animals will be housed with a goal of maximizing species-specific behaviors and minimizing stress-induced behaviors.
  3. Only one species of an animal is to be housed in an enclosure.
  4. The environment in which the animals are maintained will be appropriate to the species.
  5. The primary enclosures for all animals will allow for all of the following conditions:
    1. Normal physiologic behavioral needs
    2. Adequate ventilation
    3. Free access to food
    4. Secure environment free from sharp edges
    5. Observation of animals with minimal disturbance to them
    6. Utilization of materials that can be easily cleaned and sanitized

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IV. Procedures for Incoming Animals

  1. All newly acquired animals need to be approved by the UWP ACUC and the Biology Department.
    1. Items that should be addressed before acquisition:
      1. Purpose the animal will serve
      2. Is there adequate housing
      3. Do we have the knowledge and supplies required to care for the animal
      4. Is the animal an endangered or threatened species
      5. Is the animal safe for students to handle
  2. All new animals should have a thorough veterinary exam to make sure they are free from disease prior to entry into the animal facility or be purchased from guaranteed disease free sources.
  3. All new animals should be quarantined for two weeks before being introduced onto the current population.
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V. Feeding

  1. Mice and rats will have access to food ad libitum.
  2. Food will be clean and free from contaminates.
  3. Remove food that is molded or otherwise soiled.
  4. Storage of opened rodent chow must be kept in plastic containers with lids.
  5. Unopened rodent chow must be stored on wooden pallets.
  6. All mice and rats will be euthanized prior to feeding reptiles.
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VI. Watering

  1. All animals will have access to water ad libitum.
  2. Water will be clean and potable.
  3. Water bottles and dishes are to be cleaned once a week, or more often if necessary to ensure cleanliness.
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VII. Room Maintenance

  1. All floors in the animal rooms should be swept once a week or more often to ensure cleanliness.
  2. Counters should be wiped down once a week and kept free of clutter.
  3. Shelves where the mice and rats are kept should be swept off each time cages are cleaned.
  4. Trash cans should be emptied at least once a week or more often if needed. Trash bags should be taken to the janitors room and placed in the large garbage bin.
  5. Waste bedding is recycled and should be removed when containers are full.
  6. All repairs of building maintenance must be approved through the Biology Department and should be reported to the laboratory manager.

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VIII. Summary of Animal Care and Cleaning Schedules

  1. Daily
    1. Check condition and welfare of animals
    2. Check mice and rats for adequate food
    3. Check water in all cages
    4. Feed tropical aquariums
    5. Clean up any obvious fecal matter from reptiles
  2. Three times a week
    1. Feed marine aquariums
    2. Check the filters on aquariums
    3. Feed monitor lizard
  3. Once a week
    1. Clean water bottles and dishes
    2. Change bedding on mice and rats
    3. Sweep floors
    4. Dust counters
  4. Twice a month
    1. Feed the snakes
    2. Disinfect snake cages
    3. Clean lids to the mice and rats cages

 

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IX. Euthanasia

  1. Animal termination will be carried out in a humane manner.
  2. Acceptable methods for euthanizing laboratory animals at the University of Wisconsin-Platteville Biology department animal facility:
    1. Carbon dioxide inhalation
    2. Cervical dislocation
    3. Chemical
  3. Carbon Dioxide Inhalation-suitable for all species provided acceptable equipment is used. In almost all cases compressed CO2 from cylinders is the preferred source of CO2.
    1. Plastic Bag Method: Place closed animal cage inside a clear plastic bag having a volume at least four times the volume of the cage. The bag must be large enough to ensure that the animal(s) will be kept in the bottom half of the bag after it is inflated.
    2. Chamber Method: This method employs a top opening chamber which is charged with CO2 prior to introducing the animal(s). After the animal(s) are placed in the chamber a slow flow of CO2 should be continued for a few minutes to maintain a high concentration at the bottom of the chamber. After breathing has stopped and the animal(s) are unconscious euthanasia may be completed by any of the following procedures:
      1. Continued exposure to CO2 for ten minutes after breathing has stopped. Newborns of most species are more resistant than adults to CO2 and will require 2-3 times as long to assure no recovery.
      2. Cervical dislocation
  4. Cervical Dislocation
    Laboratory mice-dislocation of the neck is a simple and humane method of euthanizing mice. The animal is held by the tail and placed on a surface that it can grip, then it will stretch itself out so that a pencil or other similar object can be placed firmly across the back of the neck. A sharp pull on the tail will then dislocate the neck.
  5. Chemical - the following chemical methods are approved for use in fish and amphibians:
    1. Benzocaine is mixed into a water-based lubricant (i.e. K-Y jelly) and applied to the skin of the frog. Once surgical anesthesia has been achieved, keep the frog cool and moist using wet paper towels and/or an ice bath.
    2. Isufluorane
    3. 3-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ether (MS222) is put into water for use as a tranquilizer, anesthetic, or euthanasia method. The recommended guidelines are as follows:
      1. Tranquilization - 25-50 ppm
      2. Anesthesia - 100-250 ppm
      3. Euthanasia - 300 ppm
  6. Method of euthanizing laboratory animals which are NOT acceptable:
    1. Drowning - inhumane
    2. Air embolism - inhumane
    3. Chloroform or ether inhalation
      1. Chloroform is not acceptable because of the great risk of producing lesions in other animals and because it presents undue hazard to the personnel. It also would be harmful to the reptiles when the euthanized animal is used as a food source.
      2. Ether is not considered acceptable unless used in a fume hood because of the risk of explosion and sidual amounts of ether would be harmful to the reptiles when used as a food source.

 

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X. Personal Health

  1. Students will be given instruction on how to protect themselves from certain hazards in the workplace including: chemical hazards, physical hazards, and blood borne pathogens.
  2. Workers will be provided with lab coats and gloves to be worn when working.
  3. Eating, drinking, and smoking will not be permitted in the animal rooms.
  4. Any employee bitten by an animal or injured on the job should report immediately to the student health center if medical assistance is required.
  5. Report the incident to the Laboratory Manager or Department Chair as soon as possible so an accident report can be filled out.

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XI. Student Training Requirements

  1. Personnel Working in the animal room will be required to go through animal certification developed by the UWP Animal Care and Use Committee.
  2. Personnel will be required to attend a safety training session given by the laboratory manager.
  3. Students working with the Biology Department's animals will be trained in the humane treatment of animals.
  4. Students will be instructed on how to care for the animals using this manual as a guide.
  5. Students will be instructed on the proper methods of restraint and euthanasia by the UWP ACUC Veterinarian on staff.

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XII. Individual Animal Care Procedures

  1. Mice
    1. Caging ~ Each mouse housed in a primary enclosure must be allotted a specific amount of floor area. This requirement will vary with the cage size and weight of the mouse. The following information should be used as a guide to caging mice. (From table 2.1 of the USDA Guide for Laboratory Animals)
Wt. Range of Mouse
Floor Area Required
Height Required
<10g
6 sq. in / mouse
5 in.
10-15 g
8 sq. in / mouse
5 in.
16-25 g
12 sq. in / mouse
5 in.
>25g
15 sq. in / mouse
5 in.

Example ~ If you have a cage with dimensions of 10x20x10, the floor space is determined by multiplying the length times the width.

10x20=200 sq. in.

If you wish to house mice that weigh between 10-15 g, divide the floor area required for that weight group into the floor area you have available.

200 (your cage) / 8 (space required per animal) = 25

You can house 25 mice in a cage 10x20x10 if they weigh between 10-15 g.
Note: Our mice cages have 77 sq. in. of space available. Average weights of our weanling mice (one month old) are 10-15 g, therefore we could house up to nine weanling mice in one of our cages. Average weights of our adult mice are 20-30 g. We could house up to 5 adult mice in our cages.
***Remember, as animals gain weight, they may have to be redistributed in order to comply with standards.

  1. Handling
    1. Mice may be easily transferred from cage to cage by gently lifting them by their tails.
    2. Mice can be restrained by gently but firmly pinching the skin on the back of their necks and wrapping the tail around a finger.
    3. Persons working with both mice and rats should be aware that rats harbor bacteria as a part of normal flora of the respiratory tract that causes a fatal speticemia in mice. Therefore, it would be a wise precaution to wrk with mice first and proceed to rats rather than risk infection to the mice.
  2. Breeding
    1. Mice reach breeding age at approximately 35-40 days of age.
    2. Gestation period for the mouse is 20 days and young are ready to be weaned at 21 days.
    3. If the total number of mice in the colony drops below 15 females and 5 males, put a male and female together in a separate cage.
    4. Label the cage card appropriately so others know this is a breeding pair.
    5. Check on the mating pair three times a week for signs of pregnancy.
    6. Separate male and female when the female is noticeably pregnant or a vaginal plug is observed.
    7. After the female give birth, check on the newborns at least three times a week to make sure they are all still alive and have plenty of clean bedding.
    8. At 21 days of age, sex the pups and put males and females into separate cages allowing tow to three mice per cage. To sex, hold the pup by the tail and press your thumb into the abdomen. If testes pop out it's a male, if nothing pops out it's a female.
    9. Put cage cards on the new cages indicating their sex.
  3. Feeding / Watering
    1. Rodent chow is located in the covered plastic containers.
    2. Fill the indentation of the wire cage lid with food at least three times a week or more often, if needed, to keep a constant supply of food available.
    3. Remove any food that is moldy or spoiled.
    4. Unopened food bags are stored on the wooden pallets.
    5. Fresh water should be given on a daily basis.
    6. Make sure the water bottles are returned to the cage they are removed from.
  4. Cleaning
    1. Fill an empty mouse cage 1/3 full of clean bedding.
    2. Set the cage with clean bedding next to a dirty cage and transfer the mice to the clean cage.
    3. Only lift the lid of the cage enough to grab one of the mice by the tail.
    4. Dump the dirty bedding into the large garbage can lined with two plastic bags. DO NOT put any other garbage in these cans. The bedding is recycled as compost.
    5. Repeat the process for all the dirty cages.
    6. Wash out the dirty cages and place on the counter to air dry. Stack in cupboards when dry.
    7. Use the hand broom to sweep the shelves where the mice cages are kept.
    8. Cages should be cleaned once a week or more often as needed to maintain a healthy environment for the mice.
    9. Water bottles should be washed in hot soapy water at least once a week.
  5. Disease
    1. It is the job of the animal care personnel to watch for symptom of illness or disease. Common symptoms of disease in mice include:
      1. Weight loss / loss of appetite
      2. Unthrifty coat
      3. Inactivity
      4. Diarrhea - especially in infant mice
      5. Labored breathing
      6. Scabby wounds or abscesses
    2. Record any evidence of disease on the animal care sheet for mice and report it to the Laboratory Manager immediately.

     

  1. Rats
    1. Caging ~ Each rat housed in a primary enclosure must be allotted a specific amount of floor area. This requirement will vary with the cage size and weight of the rat. The following information should be used as a guide to caging rats. (From table 2.1 of the USDA Guide for Laboratory Animals)
    Wt. Range of Mouse
    Floor Area Required
    Height Required
    <100g
    17 sq. in / rat
    7 in.
    100-200 g
    23 sq. in / rat
    7 in.
    200-300 g
    29 sq. in / rat
    7 in.
    300-400
    40 sq. in / rat
    7 in.
    400-500
    60 sq. in / rat
    7 in.
    >500g
    70 sq. in / rat
    7 in.

    Example ~ If you have a cage with dimensions of 10x16x7, the floor space is determined by multiplying the length times the width.

    10x16=160 sq. in.

    If you wish to house mice that weigh between 100-200 g, divide the floor area required for that weight group into the floor area you have available.

    160 (your cage) / 23(space required per animal) = 6.8

    You can house 6 rats in a cage 10x16x7 if they weigh between 100-200 g.
    Note: Our rat cages have 156 sq. in. of space available. Average weights of our weanling rats (one month old) are 75-100 g, therefore we could house up to six weanling rats in one of our cages. Our adult rats average 300-400 g so we could house up to three adult rats in one of our cages. As a general rule, however, if we have enough cages we try to only house a maximum of two adult rats per cage.
    ***Remember, as animals gain weight, they may have to be redistributed in order to comply with standards.

    1. Handling
      1. Never pick up rats by the end of the tail. The skin on the tail is not strong enough to support the weight of the rat and can strip off if the animal struggles. Rats can best be handled if they are picked up and held firmly with the thumb and forefinger behind the forelegs.
      2. Recommended Bry-Bulb temperatures for common laboratory animals (Table 2.4 of USDA Guide for Lab Animals) is 64-79 degrees Fahrenheit.
    2. Breeding
      1. Rats reach breeding age at approximately 70 days.
      2. Gestation period for rats is 22 days on the average and young can be weaned at 21 days.
      3. If the total number of rats in the colony drops below ten females and six males, put a female and male together in a separate cage.
      4. Label the cage card appropriately so others know this is a breeding pair.
      5. Check on the mating pair three times a week for signs of pregnancy.
      6. Separate male and female when the female is noticeably pregnant or a vaginal plug is observed.
      7. After the female give birth, check on the newborns at least three times a week to make sure they are all still alive and have plenty of clean bedding.
      8. At 21 days of age, sex the pups and put males and females into separate cages allowing tow to three mice per cage. To sex, hold the pup by the tail and press your thumb into the abdomen. If testes pop out it's a male, if nothing pops out it's a female.
      9. Put cage cards on the new cages indicating their sex.
    3. Feeding / Watering
      1. Rodent chow is located in the covered plastic containers.
      2. Fill the indentation of the wire cage lid with food at least three times a week or more often, if needed, to keep a constant supply of food available.
      3. Remove any food that is moldy or spoiled.
      4. Unopened food bags are stored on the wooden pallets.
      5. Fresh water should be given on a daily basis.
      6. Make sure the water bottles are returned to the cage they are removed from.
    4. Cleaning
      1. Fill an empty rat cage 1/3 full of clean bedding.
      2. Set the cage with clean bedding next to a dirty cage and transfer the rats to the clean cage.
      3. Only lift the lid of the cage enough to grab one of the rats behind the forelegs.
      4. Dump the dirty bedding into the large garbage can lined with two plastic bags. DO NOT put any other garbage in these cans. The bedding is recycled as compost.
      5. Repeat the process for all the dirty cages.
      6. Wash out the dirty cages and place on the counter to air dry. Stack in cupboards when dry.
      7. Use the hand broom to sweep the shelves where the rat cages are kept.
      8. Cages should be cleaned once a week or more often as needed to maintain a healthy environment for the rats.
      9. Water bottles should be washed in hot soapy water at least once a week.
    5. Disease
      1. It is the job of the animal care personnel to watch for symptoms of illness or disease. Common symptoms of disease in rats include:
        1. Weight loss/ loss of appetite
        2. Unthrifty coat
        3. Inactivity
        4. Raised, inflamed concentric ridges on tail
        5. Respiratory infections
      2. Record any evidence of disease on the animal care sheet for rats and report it to the Laboratory Manager immediately.
  2. Snake
    1. Housing
      1. The snakes are housed in cages in room 324 Boebel.
      2. The room temperature should be 75-80 degrees F.
      3. Humidity should be about 70%.
      4. Some source of heat should be made available from a heat rock, heat tape or lamp. Heat pads and rocks should be set at 90-95 degrees F.
      5. The enclosure should be large enough to let the snakes move away from the heat source if wanted.
    2. Feeding / Watering
      1. Snakes are fed once every two weeks.
      2. The small snakes will eat mice and larger snakes will eat rats.
      3. All rodents used for food for the snakes will be fed pre-euthanized mice to prevent injury to the snakes and to reduce their instinct to strike.
      4. Select a mouse or rat from the rodent room and euthanize it by CO2 or cervical dislocation (mice only), or taw one out from the freezer.
      5. Place the rodent in the cage with the snake.
      6. If the snakes do not want to eat, take the rodent out of the cage and try again later. Make sure the rodent that is taken out is put back with the same snake or disposed of - do not try to feed to a different snake.
      7. After feeding the snakes, wait 1-2 days before holding the snake. They might regurgitate their food if held too soon after eating.
      8. Provide fresh water three times a week or more often, if needed, to assure cleanliness.
    3. Cleaning
      1. Clean the snake cages on the week that the snakes are not being fed.
      2. Only clean one snake cage at a time. Wash hands between each cage.
      3. Remove the snake from its cage.
      4. Have someone hold the snake during cleaning or put it in a large aquarium.
      5. Remove water dishes, rocks, and sticks.
      6. If there are mast down, remove them for washing.
      7. Scrub the inside of the cage with hot soapy water. Rinse well.
      8. Spray the cage with amphyl disinfectant or wipe with a mild bleach solution.
      9. Let the cage air out before putting the rocks, sticks, clean mats, and a clean, full dish of fresh water back inside.
      10. Put the snake back in the cage.
      11. Make sure the doors are shut securely.
      12. Fecal matter should be removed daily or whenever present.
      13. Wash hands before working with other snakes.
    4. Disease
      1. It is the job of the animal care personnel to watch for symptoms of illness or disease. Common symptoms of disease in snakes include:
        1. Evidence of mites on skin
        2. Mouth rot
        3. Weight loss / loss of appetite
        4. Respiratory infections
      2. Record any evidence of disease on the animal care sheet for snakes and report it to the laboratory manager immediately.
  3. Savannah Monitor
    1. Caging
      1. The monitor is housed in the bottom enclosure of the reptile cages.
      2. The temperature should be between 75-80 degrees F. and the humidity should be 70 %.
      3. Some source of heat should be provided in the form of a heat rock, heat tape or basking lamp.
      4. A water bath is provided at one end of the cage so the monitor has access for bathing.
    2. Feeding / Water
      1. The monitor is fed pre-killed mice two to three times a week.
      2. Fresh water should be provided on a daily basis.
    3. Handling
      1. The monitor is tame, but care should be taken to avoid his head and mouth.
      2. Heavy gloves can be worn as a precaution when handling the monitor.
      3. Always hold the monitor securely around the neck and shoulder area so he can not get his head around to bite.
    4. Cleaning
      1. The enclosure should be cleaned each week with hot soapy water. Rinse well.
      2. Fecal matter should be removed whenever present.
      3. The water bath at the bottom of the cage should be removed once a week and scrubbed out.
  4. Aquaria

    The department has both tropical aquariums and marine aquariums. They are located in 324 Boebel.
    Tropical

    1. Feeding
      1. Tropical fish are generally fed daily. Feed as much as the fish will consume in 15-20 minutes.
      2. Do not over feed as left over food will cloud the water.
    2. Cleaning
      1. If the inside of the tank become covered with green algae clean the sides of the glass with the algae scraper.
      2. If the tanks appear cloudy, first check to make sure the filters are working properly. If the filters are all ok then the tank will need a partial water change.
      3. Siphon out 1/3 to 1/2 of the water using the clear plastic siphon hose.
      4. As you siphon out the water, clean the gravel at the same time by moving the large tube through the gravel. The siphoning action will pull the debris out of the gravel and since the gravel is heavier it will fall back into the tank.
      5. Replace the water you removed with new water that has been treated with Start Right or that has been left sitting for more than two days.
        NOTE: The only time you should take down a tank completely is if the tank needs to be moved or if the tank has been contaminated by disease.
    3. Disease
      1. Always disinfect nets with a net dip between tanks to prevent spread of disease. NET DIP: 3 drops of formaldehyde per gallon of water. Dip nets in bucket to rinse off the water from the sink before using.
      2. Sometimes fish will get diseases. Look up the symptoms on the chart located in the drawer labeled "Charts / Reverences" and treat with medications as directed.
     

    Marine

    1. Feeding
      1. A few of the marine animals are filter feeders. To feed these animals you will need to add some brine shrimp eggs to the tank every other week.
      2. Those animals that are not filter feeders will eat small pieces of raw fish that is kept in the freezer in room 319.
      3. Take the fish out of the freezer and cut off a small chunk. Thaw this piece out in some warm water.
      4. When the fish is thawed, break it up into very small pieces and place a small piece of fish in front of each animal.
      5. Remove any uneaten fish the next day or it will spoil and cloud the water.
      6. Feed the marine animals in this manner three times a week.
    2. Cleaning
      1. Use the algae scraper to clean the sides of the glass as needed.
      2. If the tank is cloudy, first check to make sure the filters are working properly.
      3. If the filters are working properly and the water is cloudy or the nitrate levels are high then some new salt water needs to be added to help maintain a healthy environment for the marine life.
      4. Always make sure there is new salt water made up before removing any water from the marine tanks.
      5. Siphon out 1/3 of the water using the siphon tubing.
      6. Clean the gravel with the siphon at the same time you are siphoning out the water.
      7. Replace the water you removed with the new salt water. The directions for making the salt water are on the bags of marine salt.
    3. Routine Maintenance
      1. Make sure the filters are working properly. The filters help keep the toxic nitrates from building up in the tank.
      2. If the filters are plugged and the water does not seem to be circulation properly, the filters need to be cleaned out.
      3. First close the valve that circulates the water in the filters. Shut off the tank and unplug the cord.
      4. Remove the filter bags.
      5. Unplug the holes where the filter bags were sitting.
      6. Replace the filters, add new floss if needed.
      7. Turn the tank and wait 5 seconds, then open the valve to make sure it is working. Adjust the water flow so the level is even with the top of the filters.
      8. Once a week, check the specific gravity should be 1.020-1.025. Refer to the aquarium manual if adjustments are needed.
      9. Once a week, check the nitrate level of the water. Make adjustments, if needed, according to the manual.
      10. If the water level drops due to evaporation, fresh water can be added. Keep track of the specific gravity when adding water.
      11. When new specimens arrive, they should be put in the tank as soon as possible. Float the unopened bags on top of the water for 1/2 hour before opening them and letting the animals out.
  5. Frogs
    1. Handling
      1. The frogs are purchased by the department only when needed for labs.
      2. The frogs should be transferred from their shipping carton as soon as they arrive.
      3. The frogs can be placed in a rat cage with a lid or in an empty aquarium.
      4. Make sure there is a lid on the tanks at all times. Some of these frogs can really jump. You may need to put some weights on the top of the lids to prevent the frogs from escaping.
      5. Put some water in the bottom of the container and place some flat rocks in the tank so the frogs can climb out of the water.
      6. Do no over crowd - six to ten frogs per tank depending on their size.
    2. Feeding - since frogs are here for only a short time they do not require feeding.
    3. Cleaning
      1. Change the water in the tanks every other day.
      2. First remove the rocks and then drain the old water out.
      3. Add fresh water from the hose that is attached to the faucet at the sink.
      4. Sprinkle 1/2 to 1/3 capsule of tetracycline into the water in each tank.
      5. Replace the rocks.
  6. Meal Worms
    1. Care
      1. Three times a week, sprinkle water over the cloth which covers the jars of meal worms. There should be a squirt bottle in the cupboard to do this.
      2. Care should be taken to make sure the meal worm cultures stay MOIST. DO NOT let the cultures dry out or become soggy as this will destroy the culture.
      3. Approximately once or twice a month, sprinkle about one tablespoon of dry oatmeal under the first layer of paper toweling in each jar.
      4. As the meal worms chew up the paper toweling, place a fresh paper towel on the top layers.
      5. Do not crumple the towel before putting it in the jar. It is much easier to find the meal worms between flat layers of toweling.

     

     

References
 United States Department of Agriculture. 1997. Guide for the Care and Use of Laboratory Animals.
University of Missouri. July 1997. Columbia, MO. Operational Guidelines for Small Animal Research Unit.